SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | I am currently selectively removing the carpet and cork lining in my RL28.
This leaves some glue residue.
Although I am sure petrol would do the trick, it is not my drug of preference - ANY ALTERNATIVE?
Also, any advice on cleaning the carpet I don't remove?
Thanks
Malcolm
m.k.moir@gmail.com
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | Obviously it depends on the glue. If it turns out to be contact cement, mineral turpentine works well and smells less.
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | I don't know if you can use safe and solvent in the same sentence.
Gunwash thinners are pretty good at removing glue but you would have to set up a fan to get rid of the fumes (not a silly idea no matter what you use) and a respirator would also be mandatroy if you wish not to go on a trip. The benefit of a serious solvent is that you get the job done quicker and get out of there sooner.
Cheers
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | On the cleaning question Malcolm.....
Swan's deck head lining was looking very stained - yellow and mould in places. A right proper mess. It also is breaking down. Just have to touch it and lots of dustt is liberated into the air. The thought of removing and replacing it seemed overwhelming in time, effort and cost so I tried cleaning it.
I used a dilute mixture of household bleach and Handy Andy (floor cleaner). Not very strong but strong enough to use gloves. I virtually soaked the carpet in sections with lots of rubbing. Then attempted to rinse it with clean water. More soaking and rubbing, ringing the cloth and repeat a few times. Took about 4 hours over two sessions as it was hard on the arms. After a few days of drying I gave it as good vacuum with a turbo head vacuum cleaner. Lots of fluff came away.
The end result is pleasing in that most of the stains have been removed and the look is a whole lot better than previously. However, there is still lots of dust liberated if the carpet is touched. Happy with the result given the time and negligible cost but would prefer a new head lining to stop the dust.
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | Perhaps someone ought to consider potential adverse interactions with the base material ? Not a chemical engineer so it's out of my ambit but the problem is a consideration.
The OH&S concerns should dictate a simple respirator for any such work inside a hull, I would have thought ?
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | Thanks to all respondents.
I will try Russell's cleaning brew, and my trusty water blaster.
As for the solvent, I remember working in a shipyard where recent arrivals to Australia were used to paint the double bottom spaces.
As a young engineer I encountered a worker staggering along the deck crying "DRUNK NO MONEY"
Thankfully this situation is no longer tolerated. Will try to avoid the same experience with my glue clean.
Thanks
Malcolm
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Re: SAFE GLUE SOLVENT - RL28 | It depends on your application Malcolm.
We just removed the carpet from our RL 24 and recarpeted. We mostly did this with our hands and some needle nosed pliers and washed residual glue with acetone or turps and then applied contact and carpet. You will find that the old contact glue is a perfect primer for the new contact glue if you are recarpeting, because the solvent in the new contact glue will eat into the old contact glue and make the chemical bond.
Gunwash is nasty, very poisonous and messy and not as effective because it evaporates too quickly. Ideally, sourcing glue solvent is your best option as it is designed to eat and thin glue and will not evaporate as quickly.. ie you can paint it on quite quickly and remove the glue with a paint scraper.
If you are going to paint you need to take as much off as you can with the glue solvent and then use heavily acetone then grease remover then paint. All should be done with class 3 respirator and gloves. It is the most effective and quick way to spend less time messing around with chemicals.
I have been boat building for 20 years.. if you have any queries please feel free to give me a call 0404 088 118 (Jaguar Marine Professional Shipwright Services)
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