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RL24, RL28, and RL34 Trailable Yachts
from Rob Legg Yachts
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RL Yacht Owner's Discussion Forum
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Return to the Forum List Adding weight either side of keel box | I have mentioned my keel weight before on this forum-88kg in a drop keel and the replies said it was too low-should be around 100kg.
The replies also said that adding weight alongside the keel box-keeping it as low as possible and close to the centre line was the way to go.(as well as fastened securely)
After a recent fortnights sailing I have finally decided to add the extra weight-the boat is far too tender-a sailing reefed a lot of the time and just plain uncomfortable.
My question is-how to go about it-what have people done? Cement with some heavy metal embedded in it seems a good way to go. Perhaps lead or steel.I was also thinking that around 30kg would be a suitable weight in total.Perhaps this has been covered in an earlier topic. My recent trip was to Fraser Is ovenighting in creeks such as Coongul
Thanks
Peter
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| | Re: Adding weight either side of keel box | I should have mentioned this on the above post-the boat is an RL24-sail no 303. I have been told that it was on of the earliest boats to be fitted with a drop keel.
The 88kg is accurate-the keel was lowered onto a reliable set of bathroom scales
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| | Re: Adding weight either side of keel box | If your internal mould is similar to my Mk4, there is space under the floor in front of the keel.
There is a platform under the Vberth where you can cut a rectangular hole to give you access to the cavity.
This is a good space for internal ballast because it is low in the middle. Putting the ballast forward lifts the stern which reduces drag when loaded for cruising.
RL24 skiff rigged yachts are very sensitive to weight and sail trim. Keep all the weight possible out of the yacht to improve efficiency.
Properly trimmed, she should plane reaching in 15 knots and see 10 knot hull speed reaching in 20 knot winds (jib and mainsail.
Running in 20+ knot winds under main and jib will see 10 knot hull speed (Jib and main) and >12knots with spinnaker.
RL24s are not a keelboat, they need to be sailed flat and fast. If your yacht feels tender, something is wrong, even with your light keel.
My yacht has a skiff rig and I have kept her light to keep efficient sailing. I run lower rig tension to let the mast bend. Unlike a lot of other people's advice, I find using the vang upsets sail trim and makes the yacht tender. I only use the vang running with a spinnaker.
Cruising I tend to run tacking to avoid using the vang and avoid accidental jibing.
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| | Re: Adding weight either side of keel box | Forgot to mention, use lead for ballast.
Remember that the hull has various buoyancy compartments. They are fundamental to your safety, do not use them for other purposes, they are your safety system.
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| | Re: Adding weight either side of keel box | I'm not sure you'll notice 30kg much. I usually race shorthanded ... 1 or 2 up, so sometimes if I think it's going to blow 17 knots plus, I fix some weights either side of the keel. I have 4x 20kg pieces. I definitely notice it when I put 80 in, but not much with 40kg
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| | Re: Adding weight either side of keel box | I have cast two 30kg lead weights-roughly rectangular in shape-100mm wide and approx 60mm deep and the length of the keel box.
So that's 60kg more .
They have been painted with 2 coats of waterbased paint-it will be interesting to see how the boat performs now-will let you all know after the next trip.
Peter
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